Monday, November 19, 2012

Does Meat Rot In Your Colon? No. What Does? Beans, Grains, and Vegetables!

Does Meat Rot In Your Colon? No. What Does? Beans, Grains, and Vegetables!

Caution: contains SCIENCE!
How many times have we all heard this bunk myth repeated?
“Humans can’t actually digest meat: it rots in the colon.” And its variant: “Meat takes 4-7 days to digest, because it has to rot in your stomach first.”
(Some variations on this myth claim it takes up to two months!)
Like most vegetarian propaganda, it’s not just false, it’s an inversion of truth. As the proverb says, “When you point your finger, your other three fingers point back at you.” Let’s take a short trip through the digestive system to see why!

A Trip Through The Human Digestive System (abridged)

Briefly, the function of digestion is to break food down as far as possible—hopefully into individual fats, amino acids (the building blocks of protein), and sugars (the building blocks of carbohydrates) which can be absorbed through the intestinal wall and used by our bodies.
Human Digestive System. Click for description
Click the picture for a more in-depth description, courtesy of the University of Cincinnati's biology department.
Here we go!
We crush food in the mouth, where amylase (an enzyme) breaks down some of the starches. In the stomach, pepsin (another enzyme) breaks down proteins, and strong hydrochloric acid (pH 1.5-3, average of 2…this is why it stings when you vomit) further dissolves everything. The resulting acidic slurry is called ‘chyme’—and right away we can see that the “meat rots in your stomach” theory is baloney. Nothing ‘rots’ in a vat of pH 2 hydrochloric acid and pepsin.
On average, a ‘mixed meal’ (including meat) takes 4-5 hours to completely leave the stomach—so we’ve busted yet another part of the myth. (Keep in mind that we have not absorbed any nutrients yet: we’re still breaking everything down.)
Gastrointestinal transit times: click for more information
Click the picture for more fascinating information on gastrointestinal transit times!
Eventually our pyloric valve opens, and our stomach releases the chyme, bit by bit, into our small intestine—where a collection of salts and enzymes goes to work. Bile emulsifies fats and helps neutralize stomach acid; lipase breaks down fats; trypsin and chymotrypsin break down proteins; and enzymes like amylase, maltase, sucrase, and (in the lactose-tolerant) lactase break down starches and some sugars. Meanwhile, the surface of the small intestine absorbs anything that our enzymes have broken down into sufficiently small components—usually individual amino acids, simple sugars, and free fatty acids.
Finally our ileocecal valve opens, and our small intestine releases what’s left into our large intestine—which is a giant bacterial colony, containing literally trillions of bacteria! And the reason we have a bacterial colony in our colon is because our own enzymes can’t break down everything we eat. So our gut bacteria go to work and digest some of the remainder, sometimes producing waste products that we can absorb. (And, often, a substantial quantity of farts.) The remaining indigestible plant matter (“fiber”), dead gut bacteria, and other waste emerge as feces.
It turns out that pepsin, trypsin, chymotrypsin, and our other proteases do a fine job of breaking down meat protein, and bile salts and lipase do a fine job of breaking down animal fat. In other words, meat is digested by enzymes produced by our own bodies. The primary reason we need our gut bacteria is to digest the sugars, starches, and fiber—found in grains, beans, and vegetables—that our digestive enzymes can’t break down.
Now what is that called, again, when food is being ‘digested’ by bacteria…?
rot \ˈrät\ (verb) — to undergo decomposition from the action of bacteria or fungi
In other words, meat doesn’t rot in your colon. GRAINS, BEANS, and VEGETABLES rot in your colon. And that is a fact.

…And That’s Why Beans Make You Fart

It’s easy to tell when your gut bacteria are doing the work, instead of your digestive enzymes: you fart. That is why beans and starches make you fart, but meat doesn’t: they’re rotting in your colon, and the products of bacterial decomposition include methane and carbon dioxide gases. Here’s a list of flatulence-causing foods, and here’s another:
A partial inventory: “Beans, lentils, dairy products, onions, garlic, scallions, leeks, turnips, rutabagas, radishes, sweet potatoes, potatoes, cashews, Jerusalem artichokes, oats, wheat, and yeast in breads. Cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts and other cruciferous vegetables…”
One side benefit of a paleo diet is the elimination of the biggest, stinkiest fart producer—beans (due to the indigestible sugar raffinose)—and several smaller ones (wheat, oats, all grain products). And it sure seems like my gut bacteria have less to do now that my amylase and sucrase supplies aren’t being overwhelmed by an avalanche of starch and sugar.
But wait! There’s another punchline! Whenever we eat grains, beans, and vegetables, we’re not digesting and absorbing much of the plant matter…we’re actually absorbing bacterial waste products. Rephrased less diplomatically:
You’re not eating plants: you’re eating BACTERIA POOP.

Supporting Evidence: Where Things Rot

I know I really should have ended this article at the punchlines, but I’ve got more to say. Digestion is fascinating! (And before we go any farther, I am not arguing that we should never eat vegetables: I’m just busting a silly myth.)
First, I’ll footnote the essay above with these references.
J Appl Bacteriol. 1988 Jan;64(1):37-46. Contribution of the microflora to proteolysis in the human large intestine. Macfarlane GT, Allison C, Gibson SA, Cummings JH.
“In the stomach and the proximal small bowel, the microorganisms found as normal flora are a reflection of the oral flora. Bacterial concentrations in this region are 10(2)-10(5) cfu/ml intestinal content. In the colon, bacterial concentrations of 10(11)-10(12) cfu/g faeces are found.”
In other words, there are roughly 10 million times as many bacteria in the colon as in the small intestine. So bacterial digestion (‘rotting’) is not significant anywhere in our digestive tract but the colon.
Appl Environ Microbiol. 1989 Mar;55(3):679-83. Significance of microflora in proteolysis in the colon.Gibson SA, McFarlan C, Hay S, MacFarlane GT.
“Proteolytic activity was significantly greater than (P less than 0.001) in small intestinal effluent than in feces (319 +/- 45 and 11 +/- 6 mg of azocasein hydrolyzed per h per g, respectively).”
That’s a mere 3.4% of proteolytic activity occurring in the feces vs. the small intestine…and that doesn’t count what already occurred in the stomach. If meat were being digested in the colon, we would expect a far greater amount of proteolysis to occur there. And that 3.4% is likely due to dead intestinal bacteria (which make up a significant fraction of feces), not undigested meat.
Then, I’ll add this firsthand experience from an intestinal transplant survivor who spent months with a jejunostomy, watching the contents of his stomach drain directly into a bag.
“Can Humans Digest Meat?”
“Because I had such an extremely short bowel, my output was very high because no absorption had taken place. I was fed and hydrated by infusion and could literally live without eating or drinking at all. Because of my excessive output, we had to make a rig that had a hose extending from the ostomy bag that drained into a one gallon jug. Often the hose would get clogged and my wife or sister would have to use a coat hanger wire to unplug it. Now if vegan pseudoscience is right, we would suspect that the hose was being plugged by pieces of meat.
Never once did we see any solid chunks of meat. I became so curious about this that I once swallowed the largest chunk of meat I could possibly get down without choking. Because of the shortness of my bowel, it only took about twenty minutes for my stomach to empty into the ostomy. Better than two hours later, there were no signs of any meat chunks. What was always clogging the ostomy tube were pieces of vegetables that were not fully chewed.
Entire pieces of olive, lettuce, broccoli florets, grains and seeds were found. Yet, large pieces of fat were never witnessed. As a matter of fact, all the fat from the meat was already emulsified by the bile into solution. Over time, fat would coagulate on the side walls of the ostomy bag, but never were there any solid pieces observed.”
(Click for full article: Can Humans Digest Meat?)

Most Vegetation Doesn’t Even Rot In The Colon, Because Humans Aren’t Herbivores

Most of the edible part of a plant is cellulose, a polysaccharide (i.e. a very long chain of sugars) that is very difficult to break down. In fact, no digestive enzyme, in any animal, is capable of breaking down cellulose! So the only way that any animal can fully digest plants is for its gut bacteria to break down cellulose, and its intestines absorb the waste products.
Ruminant anatomy and physiology: click for details
Ruminant digestive system, courtesy of the University of Minnesota. Click for article.
Ruminants, including cattle, bison, deer, antelope, goats, and other red meat, have a special “extra stomach” called the rumen. They chew and swallow grass and leaves into the rumen, ferment it some, barf it back up again, chew it some more (called “chewing the cud”), and swallow it again, where it is digested a second time. Hindgut fermenters, like horses, have an extra-long gut. And rabbits run their food through twice: they eat their own poop in order to get more food value out of the plant matter they eat.
(For a better explanation of herbivore digestion, with lots of pictures, click here for an informative presentation (pdf) from the University of Alberta’s Department of Agriculture.)
Humans, in contrast, don’t have gut bacteria that can digest cellulose. That is why we can’t eat grass at all, why there is so little caloric value for us in vegetables, and why we call cellulose “insoluble fiber”: it comes straight out the back end.
This fact alone proves that humans, while omnivores, are primarily carnivorous: we have a limited ability to digest some plant matter (starches and disaccharides) in order to get through bad times, but we cannot extract meaningful amounts of energy from the cellulose that forms the majority of edible plant matter, as true herbivores can. We can only eat fruits, nuts, tubers, and seeds (which we call ‘grains’ and ‘beans’)—and seeds are only edible to us after laborious grinding, soaking, and cooking, because unlike the birds and rodents adapted to eat them, they’re poisonous to humans in their natural state.
You can demonstrate the purpose and limits of human digestion with a simple experiment: eat a steak with some whole corn kernels, and see what comes out the other end.

It won’t be the steak.
Live in freedom, live in beauty.
And please post this link anywhere you see the bunk myth “Humans can’t digest meat, it rots in the stomach/colon” being propagated.
JS
(Did you enjoy this post? Can it be improved? Are you angry with me? Leave a comment, and use the icons below to share it with your friends!)
You might also enjoy “How ‘Heart-Healthy Whole Grains’ Make Us Fat”, “Why Humans Crave Fat”, “The Myth Of ‘Complex Carbohydrates’”, and the classic “Eat Like A Predator, Not Like Prey: Paleo In Six Easy Steps”.

 

Monday, May 7, 2012

GROW YOUR OWN WHEATGRASS

by Mike Bergonzi
Ok, here is grows...  Tongue out
   
Spend as little as $1 - $2 per week to have your very own wheatgrass juice at home, all you need is a seperate wheatgrass juicer.  You can grow wheatgrass INDOORS, in a planting tray, flower pot, cup, etc... without mold no matter where you live in the world.  I do suggest always growing wheatgrass in soil rather than hydroponically (no soil).  Growing indoors or outdoors doesn't change the actual grass itself.  Visit our store at the 'STORE' link at the top of the page.  You may order your own "How to Grow" DVD by Michael Bergonzi (updated in 2009) from this website store.  The DVD includes how to grow wheatgrass, sunflower, pea greens and buckwheat.  (Pea Greens can be grown the same way as wheatgrass!)  Seperate sprouting DVD will include all different kinds of sprouts (mung beans, whole lentils, fenugreek, alfalfa, broccoli, clover, garbanzo beans, adzuki, quiona, millet, etc...) all of these are grown hydroponically, without soil.  If you are in need of more help after watching the DVD, phone consultations can be purchased here or he will be happy to answer all your questions via email or from the 'contact us' link above.
   
To begin, you will need some growing trays...  There are the small trays, which are 10"x10" use approx 1 cup (½ pound) of seed and will yield up to 10 ounces of juice or there are the large trays are 17"x17" use up to 2 cups (one pound) of seed and will yield up to 20 ounces of juice per tray.  The large trays should produce almost 2 pounds of wheatgrass.  One pound of wheatgrass = approx. 12 ounces of juice, when using the Healthy Juicer.  don't forget that you can grow wheatgrass in a flower pot as well, or any other container that will hold some soil in it ...some soil of any kind... potting mix, top soil, potting soil, FYI: at times, and organic compost in a bag may be too acid base and your wheat seeds will not grow as well.  Please read in detail about the reason I will always use soil when growing wheatgrass, never hydroponic.  .... and some wheat seeds.  *Remember:  Seeds to grow in soil (with trays, pots, etc...) are hard winter (or spring) wheat seeds for wheatgrass, small black or black oil sunflower seeds for sunflower greens, snow or speckled pea seeds for pea greens and whole buckwheat (with the shell) for buckwheat lettuce greens.  Seeds that you can grow hydroponically are alfalfa, broccoli, clover, radish, garlic, onion, mustard, chia... these will grow into the micro greens and then you can also sprout and eat adzuki beans, mung beans, whole red or green lentils, fenugreek, garbanzo, etc... **SEE HOW TO SPROUT CHART AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE.
         
The basics to get you started:
          
1. Soak your hard winter wheat seed (also called wheatberries, please stop calling them berries, they are SEEDS!  thanks!) overnight or 8-12 hours.  Hard spring wheat will also work, however, at times, the winter wheat is a better choice.  They are the same seed, just harvest at the farm a different time of the year.
 
2. Sprout the seed in a jar for the next 16-24 hours, rinsing the seed well three times a day, before work, after work & before bed or before school, after school and before bed... some of you may have gotten that joke and laughing right now!! 
  
3. Plant the seed after a very short "tail" is visable, on top of the soil (basic potting mix or top soil will work fine, peat moss is an important ingredient to look for in your soil, if you have to add peat moss the mix is 1part peat moss/3parts soil) filled half way up the tray.  Do not bury the seeds under the soil, however, you will need to cover them up to keep them wet. 
   
4. Water tray, heavy but gentley, once in the morning and then cover seed to keep from drying out for the first three days.  Another tray can be used that will go right on top of the seed, either empty or full with soil (you won't hurt the seeds), or a black piece of plastic.  The cover is to keep the seeds wet.
   
5. During the first three days of growth, water once a day, heavy but gentle, in the am and really soak the soil (until the tray drips is a good sign you are watering enough) and then lightly mist your seed in the pm, before bed (lift cover off to mist seed). 
   
6. On the fourth day, uncover grass (roots should begin to take over your soil), water heavy once a day and keep the grass in the shade (never direct sunlight).  If you can 'see' in the room where you are growing and do not have to turn on a light, then there is plenty of light for your grass to green up.  In the winter months, if you have to keep the grass inside a room where there are no windows, you may just have to change the light bulbs in that room to full / wide spectrum lights.  Leave them on as the sun would be out.  Visit www.ottlite.com for more details on these lights.
 
7. For mold problems, increase your air circulation with a fan or A/C to keep temp between 60-80 degrees.  Please also visit the 'FAQ' link and read all about MOLD and Wheatgrass.  I have the answers you are looking for!  Trust me!!
  
8. Harvest grass when a second blade of grass appears or when the grass 'splits / joints' toward the bottom of the blade (average growing time is 7-12 days depending on the weather, but still always watch for the second blade of grass as you can never judge by how many days it has been growing or how tall the grass is).  A pair of scissors works great to cut the grass.  Harvest really low and right above the seed.  *Remember it is always better to harvest your wheatgrass sooner rather than later!!  The older it gets, the more bitter it tastes.  Read the blog at 'Michael's Blog' link.
   
9. Only harvest one time... that cut grass will store in the fridge for up to 7 - 14 days, use the 'green bags' (coming soon for sale in our store) and be sure that your fridge is cold, 38-40 degrees.  Once you harvest, then start process all over again with new seed and soil.  It will grow back a second time, however, it will have lost 50-75% of it's nutritional value.  Wheat is an annual seed, so the first growth is the one you want.  The second can be given to your animals!!!  (Or as an implant! and again, some of you are now laughing!!) 
     
This is just some hints on growing, refer to the video for detailed instructions.
 
You can purchase more supplies from the STORE link above to begin growing your own at home (seeds, small & large planting trays, racks and fresh sprouts / grass). 



DAY ONE, sprouted wheat seeds
DAY ONE, close up

DAY TWO, wheatgrass seeds growing

DAY TWO, close up


DAY FOUR, wheatgrass growing

DAY FOUR, close-up
DAY FOUR, even closer, see the roots?

DAY FIVE, wheatgrass growing

DAY FIVE, wheatgrass

Jointing Stage - Time to Harvest


DAY FOUR, even closer, see the roots?

Roots of full grown wheatgrass.

Small Growing Rack - holds 7 trays, 10"x10" 

This is the Easy Way to Sprout Chart.

Growing Sunflower GREENS

(only a few things are different than growing wheatgrass... please refer to the "how to grow wheatgrass" page, first.)


1.  Use small black or black oil sunflower seed. (yes, bird seed is a great second choice if you can't find a good organic source for the sunflower seed)  The large 'white striped' sunflower does not grow as well.

2.  Plant a bit less seed per tray then what you would with wheatgrass.  For a large, 17"x17" planting tray, use 3/4 pound or just over one cup of seed per tray.  For the smaller, 10"x10" trays, use 1/2 cup.

3.  Cover the sunflower seeds (after soaking, sprouting, planting) with a weighted tray.  The weight will allow them to all grow at an even height.  Don't worry, you can't put 'too much' weight on them.  You won't hurt them!!  =)

4.  Keep the weighted tray on top of the sunflower seeds for up to 5 days, water once a day.  (remove cover to water)

5.  After the five days of weight on top (maybe only 4 days in the summer or with a really good seed) or when the sunflower pushes that weighted tray on the floor, then keep dark for two more days, allowing them to grow taller.  Turn an empty tray, upside down, and put back on top of the sunflower.

6.  The sunflower shells (black hulls) should slide off the leaves as they are growing, or you can 'rub' them off when they are wet.  Catch the tray early in the morning, while it is still 'dewy' on the 7th day, and rub your hand across the tops.

7.  Sunflower is ready to harvest when it "joints" at the top, another set of leaves will be visable.
     (average of 10-12 days before harvest time)  After it's cut, it will last 1-2 weeks in the fridge.